Restaurants

Akai Lounge

City:

Englewood

County:

Bergen County

Phone:

201.541.0086

Price:

$$$

Cuisine:

Sushi

Key:

Full Review

Akai

**
11 North Dean St.
Englewood
201.541.0086
akailounge.com

I know of no more attractive and agreeable spot for consuming mass quantities of sushi, sashimi, and other Japanese fare than this charmer, which until recently was called Koi. Additional draws include trendy cocktails and martinis and a short but smart selection of wines and sakes. (While waiting for my party, ensconced on the stylish banquette that runs along one long wall of this narrow space, I enjoyed a lychee martini.) The smart, strikingly modern decor sparkles in shades of gray and lipstick red, managing to be sleek yet still warmly inviting.

This popular spot draws a diverse clientele, including the usually incompatible extremes of families with children in tow and stylish singles out on the town. Many are regulars who are greeted by name and with real warmth -- including hugs when warranted -- by the restaurant's vivacious general manager. Even the kids seem happy to be here.

The extensive menu includes all the sushi, sashimi, hand rolls, rice bowls, noodle bowls, and fusion dishes we now expect of a modern Japanese restaurant.

When it comes to raw fish, sushi restaurants fall into two categories. The vast majority serve fish that is wholly acceptable -- fresh, cut well, served attractively at the proper temperature -- while only a tiny minority rise above and serve fish that is so silky, so buttery, so essence-of-the-sea that it makes me swoon. Akai falls into the first category. The sashimi platter is composed of tuna, yellowtail, salmon, fluke, and other usual suspects, and I would down it with pleasure any day. But it's not outstanding. On the other hand, starters of thin-sliced yellowtail spiced up with jalapeno and expertly minced tuna tartare with just the right amount of wasabi cream sauce do manage to set themselves apart.

I found the cooked dishes less balanced. With some, such as steamed pork dumplings with lots of wasabi, and a generous portion of rock shrimp tempura, the flavors were lovely and pronounced, but the texture was problematic -- mushy, to be precise. Two hot entrees featured different overly sweet sauces. The sake-miso marinade in a dish of grilled Chilean sea bass was just a tad less sweet than the miso-based teriyaki sauce that graced my grilled skirt steak. For that dish, accompaniments of wasabi mashed potatoes and florets of crunchy, bright-green broccoli outshone the fatty, flaccid beef.

Those who like their sushi with cooked ingredients will be pleased with a classic futomaki and a less classic but fun Crazy California Roll (made with crabmeat tempura). Hot drinks and desserts are limited to green tea and customary confections, including mochi in mango and green tea flavors.

I am often asked how much relative weight I give to aspects of a restaurant experience other than food. Although the food here is average, the palpable
warmth and the beautiful, electric setting make Akai worth a look-see.