Food + Dining

Green Your Glass

By Warren M. Bobrow

I demand wines that are small producer (garage wines) and if they are organic/biodynamic or sustainably produced, that’s a definite plus! Fortunately, there are quite a few wine stores in New Jersey that stock or even specialize in wines that are organic, biodynamic, sustainably produced, and/or handmade.

Bernardsville is the home of 56 Degree Wines, owned by Chris Cree. Chris is a Master of Wine, one of only 29 in the United States, and the only M.W. with his own store. 56 Degrees aims to expose the hidden producers, those under-the-radar contributors to their art who practice the ancient methods of wine production. Handmade wines are their specialty, and organic/biodynamic and sustainable wines are also very well represented. Joe Bembry, Chris’s director of operations and wine buyer, speaks clearly and deeply of the passion that goes into producing wines that exemplify this obligation to the soil.

People drive by and (incorrectly) assume this boutique of all things wine is expensive. Nothing could be further from the truth, with offerings starting at about twelve dollars. Organically made wines are not necessarily a luxury item! If you are eating as healthfully as possible, then it only makes sense to drink the same way. Ask anyone who works here about this philosophy; I learn something every time I shop here.

Down by the Delaware River in Stockton sits an unassuming block of stores dating back to the 1930’s. This time of year the town bustles with activity because of the weekend Farmer’s Market right next door to Phillips’ Fine Wines. I’ve been shopping at Phillips’ for several decades because of their unique approach to the older vintages. Plus, they were one of the earliest proponents of organic and handmade wines in New Jersey. There was a time that I would bypass all of my local stores for a chance to browse the multitude of tiny rooms bursting at the seams with small producer gems. Knowledgeable, passionate staff guides the neophyte or the expert through these liquid history lessons.

Over in Lambertville, you can find Welch’s Wines, one of the oldest remaining stores in this riverfront village. Dating from 1933, Welch’s has quenched the thirst of many a generation of wine lover. I lived and worked nearby back in the early 90’s and found that Welsh’s always had quite the unique beer selection. But, if you made your way around a circuitous route in the original storefront, you’d discover several rooms bursting with small producer wines, somewhat hidden from the keg and shot customers. As far as pricing goes, Welsh’s has it all covered, from blue jeans to black tie, all meant to complement the multitude of BYOB restaurants in the area.

Westfield and Princeton both house plenty of wine shops, but one boutique, with locations in both towns, particularly resonates with me. CoolVines is this shop. Specializing in finding well-priced, small-producer wines, this store takes a different approach to wine shopping than most of its competitors. Owner Mark Censits firmly believes that wine should be an adjunct to complement food. Given the explosion of BYOB restaurants, both in Princeton and in Westfield, people are much more inquisitive about which wines taste best with what foods. Mark encourages his wine consultants to engage the customer in the story behind the wines, not their scores or how the popular marketing machines spin wine appreciation. CoolVines carries wines that taste great with food, and the engaging staff is well versed in parings. Organic and biodynamic wines are of particular note. Many great sustainably produced wines actually cost less than similar wines produced in greater quantities.

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