Food + Dining

Good Suds

By Brianne Harrison

I will admit, I’ve never been a big beer drinker. Not even in my college days (seriously!). But I am pretty open to trying things that I haven’t liked in the past in the hope that it’ll be better this time around. So, I was only too happy to set off for Iron Hill Brewery in Maple Shade for their “Welcome to New Jersey” brewer’s reserve tasting, which they hosted in partnership with Flying Fish Brewery.

Here’s the deal with Iron Hill and Flying Fish: Flying Fish is the state's largest microbrewery,a dn Iron Hill is its newest brewpub. Naturally, they both have a head brewer—very friendly guys who are serious about their beers. One of the reasons I was willing to give beer another go was because I’d been told by people who knew these things that beers from microbreweries have about as much in common with most of the stuff we get in bottles and cans as a Cab. Sav. has with a Gewurztraminer—they share basic ingredients and the same general beverage category, but that’s about where the similarities end.

Happily, those wise friends were totally correct, and I’m now a suds convert. The beers we tried (11 in all—and I was still able to walk straight when we left!) were wonderfully flavorful and, in some cases, astonishingly complex. I had no idea that beer could give wine a run for its money in terms of flavor layers, but I’m happy to be proven wrong.

Sadly, by the time we arrived, two of the three Flying Fish beers were already gone, but we were able to sample their Grand Cru. Besides that, everything we tasted was from Iron Hill. Here’s what we tried:

Pumpkin Ale: Chris LaPierre, the head brewer at Iron Hill, suggested I try this first, after discovering that I tend to be more of a wine drinker. So I guess this is beer for beginners, and it was very nice. I found it smooth, with a subtly yeasty flavor (none of that heavy, yeast slap in the face to be found here), with a slightly sweet finish. Nothing too cloying or overpowering at all—quite enjoyable!

Caprice: This is a Belgian beer that’s been brewed using American hops, according to LaPierre, who went on to explain that this has been catching on lately—apparently this is the Belgians’ way of giving a nod and a thanks to all those Americans who love their Belgian beers. The result was a sunny yellow brew with a smooth, pleasing flavor that was, again, light on the yeast.

Brett Quadfather: Brett was, hands down, my favorite beer of the evening. It’s made using wild yeast, which is typically kept as far away from the brewing process as possible. Its introduction results in flavors that were described to me as being more bacteria than yeast-like—leathery, and more sour than you might expect from a beer. My first thought, after my initial sip of this dark, tea-colored beer, was that I was somehow drinking a beer that tasted exactly like red wine! Brett has deep grape and the rich fruit flavors I typically associate with bold reds. It started out sweet, then introduced some spice flavors—cinnamon, nutmeg, and a hint of brown sugar, before wrapping up with a slightly sour ending. No yeast flavors, no beer bitterness, just an incredibly enjoyable mouthful that made me wish I could get an entire glass instead of the small taster I was drinking out of. But, there were many more to try…

English Session Ale: This was a mouthful, but a good one—thick, with the flavor of hops, and slightly sweet. Definitely a meal in a glass.

Light Lager: The Lager has only 90 calories to the glass, so it’ll please the dieters out there. It has, as you might imagine, a very light taste to it, with a malty finish. If you’re an ale fan, this probably isn’t the beer for you, but if you like lagers or want something light on a hot summer day, this would be an excellent choice.

Oktoberfest: How could we not try this one? Oktoberfest was a thick, malty, palate-coating, amber-colored beer. It’s full and assertive without being too pushy. It boasts some subtle spice flavors and it reminded my companion a bit of Sam Adams.

Vienna: Oktoberfest was described as this beer’s big brother, which is true. Vienna is more yeasty, and less complex than the Oktoberfest, but still quite enjoyable. It’s a nice, easy drinking beer, with some chocolate notes and malt flavors. No big surprises here, but sometimes that’s what you want, isn’t it?

Dunkelweizen: An unfiltered beer with rich chocolate and mocha flavors. This one was very smooth and round, with a pleasant aftertaste—very little bitterness, which I appreciated.

Raspberry Wheat: Another beginner’s beer. Iron Hill uses a natural raspberry concentrate in this beer, which gives it a nice, clean, light raspberry flavor that isn’t fake or cloying.

Ironbound: Perhaps my second favorite beer. I took my first sip, did a double take, and said:
“Woah, lime!” The early citrus explosion was followed quickly by flavors of mint, with wheat or straw-like undertones and a slightly bitter finish. It was quite complex—definitely a beer you’d end up passing around the table and asking your friends: “What do you taste in this?” It would be perfect with salsa, guacamole, grilled fish, or anything spicy.

Grand Cru: The only Flying Fish brew we were able to try did not disappoint. It had a bright, grassy flavor with lemon and lime undertones, some clove flavors, and a clean, dry finish. This is another beer that would be great on a hot day.

This is Iron Hill’s first outing in New Jersey (the Delaware-based company owns seven other restaurants in Delaware and eastern Pennsylvania) and it’s the first new brewpub to open in New Jersey in a decade. Thankfully, it looks like a nice addition to the New Jersey dining and bar scene. The food we tried was very good—definitely a healthy step up from the greasy fried fare you find in most brewpubs. Iron Hill takes food as seriously as its beer; everything is fresh, seasonal, and made from scratch. So, gather up some friends for a night out, or grab some Flying Fish for your next game night in—I highly doubt you’ll be disappointed.