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Beauty
Best Face Forward
A top New Jersey esthetician shares her skin-care secrets for achieving a beautiful mirror image. By Melissa Astone
Q: My pores seem unusually large. Is it possible to shrink them?
A: Pores play a very vital role in skin physiology and are a necessary part of the skin’s health. Our hair grows in a pore, also called a hair follicle. A pore delivers the necessary oils that the surface of our skin depends on for hydration and protection from the environment. So, without pores we could easily end up bald with extremely dry skin — not a pretty sight! Since our pores are genetically predetermined, it is not possible to “shrink” them. However, it is possible to minimize their appearance. Exfoliation will slough away tiny cells that can collect within and around the pore’s opening, exaggerating its size. Keeping pores clear of debris prevents the accumulation of dirt, oil, and bacteria, which causes the pore’s diameter to expand. Controlling sun damage also helps. As sun exposure breaks down collagen and elastin within the skin, it can cause the pores to dilate from lack of strength and support. A well-planned combination of skin-care products and clinical facial treatments often do the trick. I like to treat my clients with a combination of deep-cleansing facials and chemical peels in conjunction with personalized home care. Laser resurfacing may also be an option and can also effectively treat wrinkles, sun damage, and discoloration.
Recommended: Glytone Step-Up Kit with glycolic acid ($135), SkinCeuticals Clarifying Clay Masque ($40).
Q: I want thicker, longer eyelashes. What do you suggest?
A: The options for achieving lush, long, and sexy eyelashes seem almost endless and include everything from high-performance mascaras to semipermanent lash extensions. Lash extensions recently have become quite popular and achieve longer, thicker, and natural-looking lashes. The process includes the application of a single strand of synthetic lashes that are curved to replicate a natural eyelash. They are adhered one by one to your own lashes and have a natural look and feel. The initial process can take up to 1.5 hours, and touch-ups are recommended every two to three weeks for the best results. A full set of lash extensions cost $150 to $300.
An affordable, less time-consuming option is using an eyelash conditioner, which can improve the health, condition, and beauty of your eyelashes. With proper use, they promote the appearance of fuller, thicker, and longer lashes in as little as a week. These products are typically a gel formulation that is applied at the base of your lashes once a day, similar to the way you would apply liquid liner.
Recommended: MD Lash Factor Eyelash Conditioner ($140), Christian Dior Diorshow Mascara ($24).
Q: I seem to rash and break out from lip and eyebrow waxing. Do you recommend another form of hair removal?
A: This is a frequent issue for individuals with sensitive skin and can occur for various reasons. While it is common to experience some redness after a waxing procedure, which can typically be controlled with a cool compress, it is not considered a normal side effect to experience bumps or a rash post-treatment. It is important to select an experienced waxing technician who properly prepares and disinfects the skin before and after waxing. If this is not done appropriately, when the protective layer is removed after waxing, the skin becomes susceptible to infection or breakouts. In some cases, clients may be allergic to an ingredient in the wax formula being used, which can cause a contact irritation in the form of a rash. If you are on Accutane or apply topical vitamin A products such as Retin-A or retinol, you should avoid waxing. These medications cause the skin to become more fragile and prone to tearing when waxed.
A safe option for patients who are on these medications or who have sensitive skin is threading: a technique commonly used for shaping the eyebrows and removing other facial hair. It involves twisting a thread of pure cotton between the fingers and around rows of hair to pull it out at the roots. Threading causes no harm to the skin, unlike waxing and chemical depilatories, making it a suitable method of hair removal for very sensitive skin types.
Q: I want to start a daily anti-aging regimen. Where do I begin?
A: Although it is impossible to stop the aging process, it is possible to control the visible signs of aging by modifying lifestyle habits and incorporating performance products into your skin-care regimen. The most essential product in any anti-aging regimen is a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 15 applied daily. Additionally, the application of an antioxidant such as vitamin C will protect skin cells from environmental damage and free radicals. A retinol-based treatment can stimulate cell regeneration and rebuild collagen. These types of products are considered the staples in a preventive and corrective anti-aging regimen, but it may be necessary to incorporate additional topical therapies depending on your unique situation.
Recommended: SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF ($150), SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.5 ($46)
Q: What should I look for in a moisturizer with sunscreen?
A: The wavelengths responsible for much of the damage that we see on our skin are those in the UVA and UVB spectrums. We commonly refer to the UVA ray as the “aging” ray and the UVB as the “burning” ray. It is important to realize that SPF indicates only the protection the product provides against the burning ray, UVB. However, the UVA wavelengths are longer and penetrate farther into the skin. UVA rays cause deeper tissue damage, wrinkles, and skin cancers. A broad-spectrum sunscreen moisturizer should contain at least an SPF 15 as well as UVA protection in the form of zinc oxide, titanium oxide, avobenzone (Parsol 1789), oxybenzone, or my personal favorite, Mexoryl SX. When shopping for a sunscreen moisturizer, be sure to read the label to make sure it includes a UVA-protecting ingredient.
Recommended: La Roche-Posay Anthelios SPF 15 with Mexoryl SX ($29)
Q: What is the difference between microdermabrasion and a chemical peel?
A: Superficial exfoliation and resurfacing procedures are convenient ways to refresh the skin without the downtime associated with deep chemical peels and ablative laser procedures. There are a wide range of superficial- to medium-strength chemical solutions that are both naturally derived and laboratory designed, including alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), Jessner's solution, and trichloroacetic acid (TCA). They require very little to no downtime. They effectively help to loosen and shed the surface layer of dead skin cells of the epidermis, promoting a more even complexion, reducing the appearance of fine lines and pore size, reducing hyper-pigmentation, and stimulating collagen production.
Microdermabrasion is a superficial sanding of the skin. The treatment involves a machine that dispenses small granules or crystals that are blown onto the outermost layer of the skin through a hand piece while simultaneously being vacuumed away. Microdermabrasion can effectively treat discoloration and uneven tone and texture, and it mitigates the appearance of a dull complexion. Four to six treatments are recommended.
Q: What can I do to control acne?
A: Acne is a skin disorder with a strong genetic predisposition that can be worsened by stress, hormonal changes, and lack of proper topical care. For mild cases, in which mostly blackheads and very few acne lesions are seen, over-the-counter acne products can do the trick. I suggest using a cleanser containing glycolic acid to dissolve oil, followed by a topical treatment containing either benzoyl peroxide or sulfur, for their bacteria-controlling abilities, as well as a topical salicylic product to unclog pores. When treating mild acne with over-the-counter products, allow six to eight weeks for the products to work within the skin. Be sure that your topical products, moisturizers, and makeup are noncomedogenic (nonclogging). If your acne does not show some improvement within eight weeks or becomes more severe (you have many cystic lesions that are painful and ?inflamed), seek the advice of a dermatologist and discuss a prescription program.
Recommended: Glytone mild gel wash with glycolic acid ($25) and La Roche-Posay Effaclar K with 1.5% salicylic acid ($28)
Melissa Astone, L.E., practices advanced medical esthetics at the Dermatology Group of Northern New Jersey. She is one of only a few estheticians in the state to be awarded National Coalition of Estheticians Certified Professional status.
